Thanks to an incredibly favorable exchange rate, Emmy and I have had the luxurious privilege of dining in most of Bangkok’s best restaurants. It’s been a real treat, and I’ve had some of the best meals of my life. We’ve also been able to get some really delicious Thai cuisine on the street for just a couple dollars. And though the dining experiences are obviously quite different, it turns out that the entrepreneurs who set up pop-up restaurants on a street corner have a lot in common, food-wise, with the chefs in the city’s finest hotels.
One of our food gurus once wrote that, when eating ethnic food in the U.S., one should order dishes that derive their quality from their recipe, rather from the inherent quality of their composition. The reasons for this are simple: the ingredients that ethnic restaurants in America use — the produce, meat and spices — have trouble competing well with the ingredients that can be had in the native countries of most ethnic cuisines, because most ingredients produced in the U.S. just aren’t as good as those found elsewhere. As a result, when one travels straight to the source, as we have, you can switch back, giving preference to ingredients over recipe when ordering.
One of the interesting consequences of this that we’ve discovered is that it’s relatively easy for street food to be both insanely cheap and extremely delicious. Because the ingredients are so fresh, tasty and inexpensively available, street vendors are able to produce a great mango salad or basil chicken with rudimentary cooking equipment at a very low cost, especially after converting from Thai baht to U.S. dollars.
The difference, then, between street carts and luxury restaurants lies in the quality of their recipes and cooking process, to say nothing of some of the incredible settings in which we’ve been lucky enough to have dinner. To showcase the difference, I’ll look at two of the best meals we had in Bangkok. One was at Sala Rim Nam, the Thai restaurant at Bangkok’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel, and one was on a street corner in a part of Bangkok that remains unidentified because we had gotten a bit lost.
Our street picnic came after we had been visiting Wat Arun, a temple across the river from Bangkok’s other well-known temples. We were sort of wandering away from the temple toward some other sights when we spotted a German family being led on a tour by a guide. Since they were going in the same general direction that we had been heading, we followed them. Though we lost them before long, we found ourselves in the middle of a huge street food market, and before we knew it, we were buying various items for lunch from a bunch of different vendors. After stopping by a 7-Eleven to buy a couple waters, a beer and a soda, we plunked down on a random corner, next to a woman selling cell phone charms, and had a feast.
The picnic was fantastic — the betel leaves, in particular, really stood out as a simple but delicious meal made possible by the power of good ingredients. And the excitement of buying such diverse and wonderful food at a street market was great, too. But I thought the pad thai and the spicy tofu — in other words, the dishes that relied on their recipe and cooking — weren’t nearly as dazzling. Don’t get me wrong, it’s absolutely incredible that such good street food is so widely and cheaply available, but those two dishes weren’t as lip-smackingly good as the ingredient-based ones.
The Oriental was a different story. We arrived a bit late for our reservation — we had just had cocktails at Vertigo Bar, on the 61st floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel, overlooking the entire city, and we had lost track of time a bit.
As we walked into the hotel, which overlooks the Chao Phraya River that runs through Bangkok, we found the hotel directory to point the way to the restaurant. The location of Sala Rim Nam? “Across the river,” the directory advised. Could we really have gone to the wrong place?! I didn’t remember reading that the Oriental’s restaurant was anywhere but, well, at the Oriental.
We asked for directions to the restaurant, crossing our fingers that the directory was some kind of mistranslation, but no — the real answer was much more fitting for a luxury hotel. We were directed to the hotel’s river pier, from which the hotel runs boat shuttles throughout the day and night back and forth between the hotel and its restaurant.
After a quick ferry trip, we were seated at a beautiful table overlooking the river, which is an unfortunate shade of brown during the day and thus only actually attractive after the sun goes down. But the sun had long since gone down, and the setting of our meal couldn’t have been nicer.
After another round of cocktails (they just sounded so good…), we began our meal with an appetizer sampler. Many of our favorite Thai dishes are appetizers, and the idea of a whole platter of little bites sounded delicious. The Oriental managed to beat our expectations by a long shot, serving us fresh crab dumplings, chicken and nut dumplings, prawn fresh rolls and fried mushrooms, replete with a selection of dipping sauces. We also had a papaya salad before moving on to a penang curry and a chili basil chicken for our main course.
The quality of the ingredients showed through immediately, especially in the crab dumplings and the papaya salad, whose main ingredients couldn’t have tasted more fresh. But the best part of the food came in its elegant and careful preparation, which both highlighted the flavors of the best ingredients and combined them to create an even greater explosion of flavor. The sauce on the penang curry was thick without being dry. The dumplings were tender and flavorful without being soggy. Altogether, the meal absolutely knocked my socks off, and its beautiful setting was just an added bonus.
The high quality of produce and other ingredients here is absolutely wonderful, and it makes for a wonderful bite on the street. But there’s no substitute for excellent cooking, here or at home. I’m just grateful that we’ve had the opportunity to explore the finer side of things during our time here.


















You guys seem to be having a blast, just save some for your trip here CHaz!